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| Know your styles .. Each "Antique" piece of jewelry says something about the era in which it was made. Below are names , pictures & time periods dates for each style. Information any jewelry lover should know...
Late Georgian , c. 1760 - 1837 History
| | The Late Georgian period includes the reigns of British monarchs George III and IV, and William IV. It was a time of social and political upheaval, during which the American Revolution, the French Revolution and the Napoleonic Wars were fought. Napoleon crowned himself Emperor of France in 1804. |
Fashion
| | A Classical revival during Napoleon's First Empire changed fashion dramatically. The tight bodices, full skirts and lace collars of the late eighteenth century gave way to delicate draped dresses with high waists, short puffed sleeves and low-cut necklines. Jewelry styles followed suit; large, heavy pieces were discarded in favor of smaller, lighter forms, often with draped chains and classical motifs. |
Jewelry
| | Necklaces: Short necklaces flattered the low necklines of the times. Common styles included rivieres, which consisted of a row of graduated diamonds or gemstones; and cameos and mosaics worn en esclavage (several plaques with two or three rows of draped chain between each).
| | | Brooches: Popular motifs included diamond-set bows, floral sprays and feathers.
| | | Diamonds: Diamonds were generally accessible only to royalty and the very rich. The diamonds in antique jewelry from this period are generally rose cut diamonds.
| | | Berlin Iron: As part of the war effort in early nineteenth century Germany, citizens were asked to donate their gold jewelry. In return they received black, lacy, cast-iron replicas of their pieces. The style proved popular and was manufactured through the middle of the century.
| | | Memorial Pieces: Jewelry containing a loved one's (living or deceased) lock of hair under glass gained popularity during this time. Other mourning pieces featured funereal scenes painted on ivory. Navette and oval shapes were common; inscriptions, seed pearls, garnets, black enamel and onyx were often included.
| | | Miniatures: In the days before photography, people wore miniature painted portraits of their loved ones in pendants, brooches and bracelets.
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Georgian jewelry is quite difficult to find on the market today. Antique jewelry from this era is very collectible and can primarily be found in antique and estate jewelry stores.   
Gentleman , c. 1790 Urn Ring , c. 1767 Mosiac Brooch , c. 1840
Victorian , c. 1837 - 1901 History
| | Queen Victoria ascended the throne in 1837, ruling Great Britain until her death in 1901. As the first female monarch in over a century, Victoria became the predominant trendsetter for women of her time. In general, her reign was one of peace and prosperity. The Industrial Revolution furthered rapid social and economic change. A series of International Expositions begun in 1851 spread technological and stylistic innovations worldwide. The emerging middle class created a new demand for jewelry, which for the first time began to be made in large quantities for the mass market. |
Fashion
| | Fashions were rather voluminous throughout the period. Full skirts, long sleeves and lace collars dominated the early decades. As women became more active (in both work and leisure) towards the end of the century, their dress became more tailored. Similarly, jewelry reached massive proportions during the 1860s and 70s, but became lighter and more delicate in later years. |
Jewelry
| | Sentimental Themes: Victoria's romantic nature, love for her husband and devotion to her children inspired a profusion of sentimental motifs in jewelry, such as hearts, bows, flowers, birds, and romantic sayings. Jewelry made from the hair of a loved one (living or deceased) was particularly popular.
| | | Semi-precious Stones: Semi-precious stones were used to keep jewelry made for the mass market affordable. Especially popular were garnet, amethyst, coral, turquoise, seed pearls and opals (one of Victoria's favorite stones).
| | | Intricate Goldwork: Gold became less expensive to work with as new sources were discovered, and standards were relaxed (after 1854, jewelry could be made in 9, 12 and 15K, rather than just 18K). Jewelers experimented with techniques to change the look and texture of gold, like granulation, chasing, engraving and filigree.
| | | Diamonds: Large diamond deposits were discovered in 1867, greatly increasing their accessiblity and affordability. Sparkling, diamond-set jewelry became especially desirable after the introduction of electric lighting in the 1880s.
| | | Nature Motifs: Victorians' penchant for nature and gardening is reflected in the motifs of their jewelry. Particularly prevalent were flowers, considered highly symbolic, and serpents (a favorite motif of Victoria's, representing eternity, wisdom and good luck).
| | | Mourning Jewelry: The unexpected death of Victoria's husband Albert in 1861 sent her, and her entire nation, into mourning. Consequently, jewelry of black enamel, jet and onyx was in high demand during the latter part of the century. |
Victorian and Antique Jewelry Today
Antique jewelry from this time period contains antique diamonds such as rose cut, Old Mine Cut, cushion cut and Old European Cut diamonds. It was during this era that the Tiffany engagement ring setting was introduced. Victorian jewelry is usually made of yellow gold or rose gold, with colorful gemstones.   
Mine cut diamond cluster, c. 1850 Little dog , c. 1870 Cushion Cut Diamond , c. 1880
Art Nouveau , c. 1890 - 1915 History
| | The Art Nouveau design movement emerged in fin de siecle Paris, during the final years of Victoria's reign, and was showcased at the Paris Exposition Universelle in 1900. It blossomed for a brief time into the twentieth century, during which Queen Victoria died (1901) and Edward VII ascended the throne. Like the concurrent Arts and Crafts movement, Art Nouveau was based on a return to craftsmanship, and an emphasis on design over material. |
Fashion
| | Turn-of-the-century fashion emphasized the figure with lightweight materials and a feminine S-shaped silhouette. The soft curves, sinuous lines and pale colors of Art Nouveau jewelry complemented the fashion of its day. It was popularized by the patronage of actress Sarah Bernhardt. As part of a larger stylistic movement, however, Art Nouveau jewelry bears more relation to the architecture, furniture and textile design, than to the clothing, of the period. |
Jewelry
| | Semi-precious Stones: The aesthetics of design were considered more important than the intrinsic value of the materials. Accordingly, semi-precious stones like moonstone, opal, amethyst, citrine, peridot and freshwater pearls were widely used.
| | | Enamel: Emphasis on the designer as artist motivated the use of beautiful enameling techniques in jewelry, such as cloisonne (in which gold wire forms partitions into which the enamel is poured); champleve (in which the enamel fills recesses cut out from the background metal; basse-taille (in which an engraved design in the metal is covered with, but still visible through, a transparent enamel); and plique-a-jour (in which the backing metal is removed from the translucent enamel after firing, resulting in a stained glass effect).
| | | Non-precious Materials: Non-traditional jewelry materials that were popular during this period included horn, bone, copper, shell, ivory, and carved glass.
| | | Nature Motifs: The Victorian interest in the natural world continued into this era. Butterflies, dragonflies, snakes, poppies, orchids, irises and waterlilies were prevalent motifs.
| | | Asian Influence: Organic motifs were not rendered realistically, but rather in a more stylized manner characteristic of the Asian arts. The world had become more familiar with Asian design from the international exhibitions of the latter nineteenth century. Sinuous, free-flowing lines were integral design elements.
| | | Symbolism: The representation of a female head with long flowing hair is prevalent in Art Nouveau jewelry. It was also an important motif of the concurrent Symbolist movement in literature and painting, which used images to present ideas.
| | | Mystery/Fantasy: Turn-of-the-century uncertainty fostered a sense of mystery and fantasy in design. Accordingly, Art Nouveau jewelry often features mythical hybrid forms and near-colorless translucent stones like moonstone and opal. |
  
Edwardian , c. 1901 - 1915 History
| | Edward VII ascended the throne following the death of his mother, Queen Victoria, in 1901. He and his wife Alexandra set the tone for the Belle Epoque, a time when elegance and fashion became society's predominant values. New wealth flourished among the upper and middle classes; the automobile, airplane and movie industries were born. Although Edward died in 1910, the stylistic period termed "Edwardian" is considered to continue until World War I. |
Fashion
| | The figure gained a new importance in fashion: the feminine S-shape silhouette prevailed. Fashion drew inspiration from the French courts of the eighteenth century; it took on an almost ethereal lightness, with layers of delicate fabrics, lace and feathers. Pale pastels and monochromatic white-on-white were the dominant color schemes. Demand for jewelry styles as light and delicate as the clothing ensued. |
Jewelry
| | Platinum: Platinum's strength enabled the creation of "invisible" settings, in which very little metal was used to hold a gemstone in place. Such settings complemented fashion's lightness. Jewelry made with saw-piercing and filigree techniques matched the lacy looks of the era. White gold alloys were developed as a less expensive alternative, and as a substitute for platinum (considered a strategic metal) during WWI.
| | | Diamonds and Pearls: Diamonds and pearls set in platinum were favored for their white-on-white color scheme, and sense of refined elegance and luxury.
| | | Garland Style Motifs: Eighteenth-century decorative motifs, such as swags, bows, ribbons, tassels, wreaths and flower garlands, show the neo-classical and Rococo influences on Edwardian jewelry design.
| | | Necklaces: The new fashion--with its upswept hair, high collars for day and low necklines for evening--emphasized the head and neck. Pendants and lavalieres were widely worn. Particularly popular was the negligee pendant, consisting of two drops of unequal length suspended from a central element.
| | | Indian Influence: When Edward toured India, Alexandra developed a keen interest in the style of the Indian princesses, or Maharajas. This exotic influence started a fashion for diamond aigrettes (feathers worn as hair ornamnets); sautoirs (long ropes of pearls or chain ending in a tassel); and chokers, or "dog collars" (one of Alexandra's favorite styles).
| | | Brooches: Circle brooches and bar pins, particularly with lacy filigree designs, were very fashionable. Stars and crescents were also popular.
| | | Amethyst: A favorite stone of Alexandra's, amethyst was often included in jewelry of the era. The combination of these violet stones with white pearls and green peridots represented the colors of the suffragette movment; the "g," "w," and "v" stood for "give women the vote." |
Today, diamond engagement rings from this time period are extremely popular. These engagement rings often feature filigree detail, and contain antique diamonds such as the Old Mine Cut and Old European Cut diamonds. The rings are typically made of platinum or white gold. Filigree diamond earrings and necklaces, and white gold and platinum wedding bands, are the ideal complement to such engagement rings.
Art Deco , c. 1920 - 1935 History
| | The Roaring Twenties are known as a fun-loving, decadent era; a time of gangsters, speakeasies and dancing the Charleston. Prohibition was passed in 1919, making it fashionable to break the law. Women won the right to vote in 1920. Society embraced the new "modern art" engendered by Cubism and the Ballet Russe. King Tutankhamun's tomb in Egypt was discovered in 1922. Fifteen million new cars were registered between 1920-1929. Fortunes were made in the stock market; the bubble burst, however, with the crash of 1929, and the Thirties began under the cloud of the Great Depression. |
Fashion
| | Women asserted their new equality with radical changes in fashion. They bobbed their hair, painted their lips, bared their arms, bound their chests and wore short drop-waisted dresses in the new "flapper" style. The boyish silhouette was accessorized with long dangling earrings, long strands of pearls, diamond watches, dress clips and cocktail rings, and bracelets in multiples on both upper and lower arms. Cloche hats completed the look. |
Jewelry
| | Platinum and Precious Stones: Post-war prosperity broadened the market for for platinum, diamonds and precious stones. Popularity of the white-on-white look carried over from pre-WWI days, with the addition of ruby, emerald and sapphire accents.
| | | Dramatic Combinations: Society's emphasis on freedom of expression and uninhibited values gave rise to unexpected and dramatic combinations of materials in jewelry; for example, coral and diamonds, or turquoise and sapphire. The bright colors were inspired in part by the scenery of the Ballet Russe. Black enamel was often used to add contrast. A seemingly random "jumble" of carved colored gemstones, termed the "fruit salad" look, became popular.
| | | Geometric Shapes: The influence of Cubism is apparent in the strong symmetry and geometry, and streamlined shapes of Art Deco jewelry. Geometric diamond cuts like the baguette, emerald, triangle, shield and calibre cuts were developed and widely used.
| | | Egyptian Motifs: The discovery of King Tut's tomb in 1923 incited a craze for Egyptian motifs like the scarab, sphinx and falcon. Stones which had been used in King Tut's jewelry, like lapis lazuli, carnelian and chalcedony, became popular.
| | | Eastern Influence: The influence of India and the Orient is evident in the use of carved gemstones, ivory, jade and highly-stylized natural motifs.
| | | Speed Motifs: As the automobile rose in importance, Art Deco culture became one that glorified speed and motion. Jewelry designs include motifs like autos, planes, arrows, gazelles and panthers.
| | | Popular Items: Several unique jewelry forms enjoyed a particular vogue during this era, including dress clips, flexible diamond "strip" bracelets, and pearls worn as sautoirs or long ropes. The recent marketing of the cultured pearl made the latter much more affordable. |
Antique engagement rings from this period are highly sought after today. These engagement rings are usually made of white gold and platinum, and contain antique diamonds such as Old European Cut and Asscher Cut diamonds. The rings often have baguettes or uniquely shaped side diamonds; colored gemstones like sapphires, rubies and emeralds are sometimes used as accents. Wedding bands from the period are also usually white gold or platinum, and set with diamonds.
Retro , c. 1935 - 1950 History
| | The Thirties were a decade of Depression for both the U.S. and Europe. The American public looked to the movies as an escape from everyday struggles. The real-life "love story" of the Duke and Duchess of Windsor also captured the popular imagination. World War II began in Europe in 1939. When the U.S. entered the war in 1941, women joined the work force en masse to lend their support. Sweeping social, economic and cultural changes followed the war's end in 1945, as middle-class affluence boomed. |
Jewelry
| | Gold: Yellow gold regained prominence during this era, as wartime restrictions made platinum unavailable to the jewelry industry. Retro jewelry is often multi-colored, combining gold alloys with rose, yellow, and even green overtones.
| | | Semi-precious and Synthetic Stones: Semi-precious stones and synthetic rubies and sapphires gained favor in the face of wartime luxury taxes and a scarcity of precious stones. New trade routes opened up South America as a bountiful source of large, semi-precious stones. Consequently, Retro jewelry often features colored gemstones like citrine and aquamarine, in rectangular cuts and massive proportions.
| | | Romantic Motifs: Romantic motifs such as bows, flowers, scrolls, fans, ribbons and ruffles complemented the new femininity in fashion. In wartime, these jewelry pieces served as substitutes for such embellishments on clothing, which were severely restricted by the war effort.
| | | Large Proportions: The taste for Hollywood glamour and drama called for jewelry of "larger-than-life" proportions. Cocktail rings, bracelets, watches and necklaces were massive and three-dimensional. The vogue for textured fabrics and an exaggerated silhouette further necessitated jewelry of a certain size and volume.
| | | Machine Age Design: Glorification of the machine in 1930s and 40s America was reflected in jewelry elements that resembled pipes or plumbing, zippers, brickwork and tanktreads.
| | | Patriotic Themes: Patriotic themes (like flags, eagles and military insignia) and colors (synthetic ruby and sapphire) were prevalent in wartime jewelry.
| | | Charms: Sizeable, three-dimensional charms became popular as a very personal form of expression. They were often worn in great numbers on a link bracelet, chronicling the life and experiences of its wearer.
| | | Earrings: Focus was on the lobe, as earrings sat close to the ear, instead of dangling below it. Popular motifs included flowers, scrolls and cornucopia. French (screw) backs and clips were prevalent.
| | | Illusion Settings: Engagement ring designs were directly affected by the Thirties economy. Smaller diamonds were set in illusion settings; these elaborately carved, square white gold mountings gave the diamonds a much larger appearance. Such rings are very popular today with budget-minded consumers who care more for character than carat weight; beautifully-detailed engagement rings with a lot of "look" can often be had for around $500. |
Antique engagement rings from this time period are delicately-detailed, and quite popular. Highly collectible is the estate designer jewelry from this era, such as that made by Tiffany, Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. | |
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